Perhaps a RAV4 owner who is a chemist could determine whether this is a correct or incorrect assumption. This technology provides superior protection to all components of the cooling system including those exotic materials like aluminum and magnesium found in the modern day engine."Īccording to the article Toyota coolant and Chevron Dex-Cool would appear to be based upon the same technology. OATs are Long Life Coolants (LLC), based on minimally depleting Carboxylate Technology. Now in the 2005 Corolla, Toyota is using 'Super Long Life' Coolant and its change interval is significantly higher (1st change at 128,000kms, then at 192,000kms). Seems way to short for me and when compared to most other cars. "OAT is an acronym for Organic Acid (Additive) Technology which describes the type of materials responsible for the corrosion protection offered by a coolant of this type. Toyota Canada has set the coolant change interval in 2003 Corolla to be every 32,000 kms which uses Long Life Coolant. From an article by Reochem, Inc., Coolant Experts:
#Toyota super long life coolant alternative manual
The Toyota RAV4 Owner's Manual says that coolant used should be either Toyota Super Long Life Coolant, or "Similar high quality ethylene glycol-based non-silicate, non-amine, non-nitrite, and non-borate coolant with long-life hybrid organic acid technology." Chevron Dex-Cool coolant employs the same labeling and uses the word "carboxylate" in its technical data description, rather than "organic acid," which Toyota uses. So? Since I have a nice tight cooling system, the puke tank level rises and falls with the with the temperature of the engine (meaning my sealing is good, that is), I'm going back to my old friend, licensed DexCool Prestone which served my old Hyundai for 188,000 miles without any cooling system issues or peculiarities it worked.Rich - What is the problem with Dexcool? I use Chevron Dexcool in my motorcycle and according to the label specs it meets all of Kawasaki's requirements as in the owner's manual and also Toyota's as printed in that owner's manual.įrom an analysis which I did for another thread: However, they ARE raking in the cash on water pump replacements. The Dealer's mechanics, service manager and parts guys? When asked, they point to the big tank outside and say that is the stuff they use, but they don't know if it's a DexCool clone, a silicate, or if it's green mud, as they have no idea about any of the chemistry considerations to begin with, nor do they care. We know what's in G-05, a borate and a small dose of silicate to quickly repair damage to the OAT layer. The Havoline coolant? Dexcool clone, they also list the same two organic acids listed in the "Big Two" Prestones and GM's original DexCool. The chemistry warning statement on the jugs of 5/150,000 mile yellow Prestone, and the licensed Prestone DexCool clone that I used for years on my old Hyundai (with excellent results) are identical. They say use the 5 year/150K Yellow Prestone, but do NOT use DexCool. Dunno if the original stuff the factory put in and sat in the car for a year and a half wrecked the pump, or if it was the G-05 i replaced it with when I bought the car.Įven the factory reps at Hyundai USA have no clue what they're talking about. Honda has come out with this type of coolant also, and also, most of the makers of anti-freeze/coolant have as well.Īs I'm mystified as to the premature failure of my water pump (replaced by the stealer under warranty) on a 2005 Hyundai Accent, I'm scouting around to replace the syrup the dealer replaced my G-05 with. By just draining the radiator and resivior and adding a 50/50 mix, you can eliminate the trapped air in the system caused by flushing. This air in the cooling system reaks havock by cuasing hot spots and throws the temp gague into the red zone. So often when people drain, flush and refill their cooling systems, they create an air pocket in the cooling system that they can't seem to get rid of. I like to buy a gallon of RED and a gallon of distilled water and mix it myself. I really like the RED and am not interested in changing. The PINK may be a 5 year coolant as compared to the RED that is a 3 year coolant. Yes! you should probably flush the whole cooling system and refill with the PINK but, you would have to remove the water in the engines lower unit because the PINK is already diluted 50%. It is a 50/50 mix of coolant and DI or RO water. Should I use this suggested coolant or would an alternative be fine And it's about 26 on amazon. The PINK on the other hand is Toyotas newest formulation. My coolant levels are low and I just read in the owner's manual that the pink coolant is toyota super long life coolant. I sorry, I was mistaken! I thought that you were talking about the RED not the PINK.
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